сабота, мај 28, 2005

How to add colours to a picture?

There's a part in Skopje that needs further explanation. It's in the north. It houses a prison for those who dealt with the law not too seriously - the national hotel for those serving time having comitted minor offences. There are construction works in progress for a mosque the size that would rival the current order of the real biggies in the Guinnes Book of Records. It has the most colourfull market in the country. And, as a gypsy, you're not a minority for a change. Name: Шутка or Šutka.

Dressed in shorts, t-shirt and havaianas (have a look and see what I mean) I took off with a friend. Urban transport got us there. The further north the bus got, the more the weather changed. Arriving at the scene we realized that we were both not really appropriately dressed. If we would have stayed in the streets, we would have been soaking wet in no time. Instead of the initiated walk around town, we "Plan-B-ed" by hiding out in shops. Shoe shops. There is at least a square kilometer filled with them around the bus stop. Insteresting side step - there are bus stops and everybody local seems to know where they are. However, when in need of one they all seem to have vanished. No matter how carefull you look around for one, there are no sign posts visible for eyes that are used to order, rest and regularity. A gathering of people next to the street also proofs helpful in these situations. Except, not on a Saturday market day in Шутка. There are people clustered everywhere. Upon inquiry at these clusters, people looked bewildered and sent us up and down the street constantly. Flagging down a bus like it were a taxi was the only option left. It worked.

So far for the side step. We had just arrived and were hopping from one shoe shop to another. Weather also changed for the better and it was time to go out in the streets. Here's where the fun really started as people stopped and watched us as we passed them by. I came to understand that the appearance of somebody with a head full of dreads is, indeed, a bit of a rarity in downtown Шuтка. Most of the people watched and prodded their neighbours. Some didn't bother and a few came and asked wether it was okay to touch. That's when it got really intersting. This is a euphemism, really, but I won't go deeper into detail than that.

About being caught up by interesting sights. As much of an attraction as we both seemed to be, Шутка offered also quite a few for us. Gypsy weddings. I believe there were two of them going on today. Heard a great deal about them, but never witnessed the elaborate dressed women. All of them could be the bride and all were a feast for the eyes. Next: the music. It's loud and once your ears are accustomed to this, it's really great. I started to wonder what a gyspy heavy metal band would sound like and imagined they'd blow away 80% of the long-established likes of Metallica, Iron Maiden, Judas Priest and perhaps even Slayer.

Dropping a more serious note: For some, life at Шутка has been generous in granting them prosperity, big cars of German make and huge fenced houses. The indifference of these who fare well is rather unpleasant. One example: At one stage a big car passed us with the speed of light, not bothering to slow down because of the water and mud filled pot-holes. And, of course, like in a scene of a slapstick movie, the spurting mud landed right all over us. To the majority however, getting through the day appears like a pretty tough fight. Every day again. The smiles on these people's faces, their sense of humour and their interest after they find out you speak a few words Macedonian makes them the people you feel more comfortable being around with. At least I did.

So far for Шутка. It's a great place and probably the most colourfull in the country. I look forward to come back to one day.